Mill Street Grill

The drive to Mill Street Grill is jazz in itself.

The outskirts of Staunton emit a suburb-inspired, strip-mall buzz but after you pass under the railroad bridge, wind around the giant watering can and drive toward the grain silos and six-story White Star Mill building, the past century riffs before you. Like any great jazz song, Mill Street Grill thrives on both the consistency of its hook and the spontaneity of its improvisation.

The White Star Mill building stands as a symbol of the 20th century, partly due to the fact that its original building materials are still intact. The stones for the foundation were taken from a nearby Staunton quarry, the bricks from a local manufacturer, and the beams from chestnut trees, now nearly wiped out from an epidemic brought from Asia to the United States during the 20th century. Opened in 1890, White Star Mill has housed a flour mill, a feed mill, a storage location, an art gallery, and now Mill Street Grill.

The White Star Mill is cozy inside and out. The weathered white silos still stand obediently beside the mill, as if waiting to be filled with grain once again. And the inside of Mill Street Grill, the bottom floor of the building, exposes the original stone, brick and beams that have witnessed a century’s passing.

Though old, the building is not without improvisation. The restaurant, decorated with earth tones, stars, stained glass and framed flour bags, has been revamped and modernized.

“It’s an atmosphere you can’t buy,” co-owner Terry Holmes reflects behind his stoic goatee and fun-loving canary shirt and Tabasco™ tie. “It’s kind of like ‘Cheers’ — everybody knows your name.” Though

Holmes was born and raised in Greensboro, N.C., he’s always had family in the area, and he often spent his summers on his local relatives’ farms. He moved to the Valley in 1985 and eventually became a roommate of current co-owner Ron Bishop.

Mill Street Grill’s bluesy feel is mirrored in its menu. Known for its barbecue ribs and fried green tomatoes, the restaurant also features, according to Holmes, “the biggest wine list this side of the mountain,” and daily specials ranging from ostrich to alligator to elk. The restaurant is often frequented on holidays, and Holmes says that the two busiest times of year are Mardi Gras and St. Patrick’s Day.

Like a songwriter, Terry Holmes creates his own “hooks.” These are the words in the song that everyone remembers, or in Holmes’ case, “the little things that no one else does” to make you remember your visit. From the bread baked in shamrock molds to the complimentary mint ice cream after your meal, Mill Street Grill has its own signature touch.

Although many visitors to the Mill Street Grill are local, Holmes says that international customers frequent his restaurant, and he tries to appeal to everyone. Holmes attributes this international business to the combination of local international companies, the multicultural area and the proximity to Interstate 81.

In the past, Mill Street Grill has been praised by The Roanoke Times, C’ville Weekly and the AAA. Eighty-One Magazine named it the best restaurant in the Valley, tied with Harrisonburg’s Joshua Wilton House in January 2000.

With the restaurant rooted in tradition and sprinkled with Cajun influences, it’s no surprise that Mill Street Grill features a jazz night. Each Wednesday, conversations soften to make room for the music, which reflects the history of the building as it fades out and then comes back strong. From the booth in the corner, you can only see focused, humming heads rarely looking at each other, feeling each other’s music. The beat floats through conversations, clanging forks and the hustling wait staff, and sits at the edge of your table to be savored.

Mid-song, bassist Lew Morrison’s glasses slide down his nose, mirroring the way his white ponytail hangs down his back, as he bounces his knee quick and high like a hurdler. His head and arm jerk in time like those of a weaver, matching the rhythm of his tan sandals. Morrison, creator of SPLAAAT (The Society for the Preservation of Live American Aural Art Traditions), also happens to be the sign painter who created the first Mill Street Grill sign.

After Holmes met Morrison and saw him play in other venues, he envisioned a Wednesday jazz night as a means of further developing the ambiance of the White Star Mill. Morrison has brought SPLAAAT, a group whose membership changes weekly, to Mill Street Grill for eight years and has organized Staunton’s Jazz in the Park series since 1987. Living the life of an artist, Morrison has played the bass for 45 years.

Morrison praises Mill Street Grill for its treatment of artists and service values. “The restaurant is successful because it has good food and friendly service. We’re icing on the cake. We just boost up their Wednesday nights.”

After you leave Mill Street Grill on a Wednesday night, you are bursting, not only from the great food, but also from the energy of the live jazz music. Getting into your car, the old buildings start to blend into the night, and as you drive back through the outskirts of Staunton, the quaintness of the jazz riff shifts back to the hum of Interstate 81.